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Fashion
October 08, 2016

9 Trends To Try From Paris Fashion Week SS17

Text by Tanisha Choudhury

From power shoulders to shiny dresses, the 80s are back!

5 Best Shows

Louis Vuitton

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The show took place at the location of the future Louis Vuitton flagship store at Place Vendôme. The collection was a more glam update on Ghesquière’s vision for the house, taking his mastery with tailoring in a more sophisticated direction. There were impeccably draped dresses and suits that were more experimental and less traditional workwear — both featuring cut-outs that were bold, geometric, futuristic and glamorous at the same time. The 80s influence was seen in a few jackets and coats with padded shoulders, and in the glittery beading and crystals on evening dresses.

Christian Dior

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One of the most anticipated shows of the season, this was not just Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for Dior, but also the brand’s first show led by a female creative director. The designer dispelled all doubts with a thoroughly modern collection, befitting the storied house. She set out to define femininity, and luckily her definition was one that catered to every kind of woman — sporty to girly and from classic to subversive. She understands and acknowledged that there is no one kind of femininity and no one kind of woman. Among the motifs present were the bees, and plenty of tarot card imagery. Not wanting to get lost in the legacy of the house, Chiuri also displayed her own strengths in full force, in all the lace, chiffon and delicate embroidery that was seen. The t-shirt bearing the Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie quote “We should all be feminists” was an especially loud and clear proclamation.

Chanel

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This season, in larger-than-life sets, Lagerfeld created and presented the Chanel show in a giant data centre. The theme of the collection as explained by the designer was ‘intimate technology’ and fittingly, the collection was futuristic and zeitgeisty, while still staying true to Chanel’s past and heritage, all at the same time. The show was opened by two Chanel-bots, sporting Daft Punk meet Stormtroopers helmets and boots. The clothes that followed included everything from updated tweeds that were colourful with slitted or pleated skirts to frothy dreses in summery hues. There were also dresses and jackets in silk prints that were at once reminiscent of the 80s and the stripes so commonly used on instagram stories. To underline the intimate part of the theme, there were a slew of lace-trimmed, delicate, lingerie-like separates dotted through the collection and somehow Lagerfeld made it all work. This was classic Chanel and classic Lagerfeld — iconic and up-to-date.

Stella McCartney

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Stella McCartney had the most celebratory end to a show seen at Paris Fashion Week this season. After a great collection, the show ended with the models performing an informal choreographed dance where they sashayed and shimmied in her beautiful clothes. Among the standout elements were her slogan t-shirts and dresses that this vegetarian designer has earned, and the denim and denim-like knits that were kept louche. Volume was created and cinched using drawstring-style ruching and paper-bag waists on trousers. Even the tailored pieces looked effortless and easy because of the designer’s mastery with cotton. Her clothes are always fuss-free and wearable but never boring.

Alexander McQueen

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Sarah Burton and her team took inspiration for this collection from the Shetland Islands of Scotland. No one can spin a dark fashion fairytale quite like McQueen and Burton proved this once again. Clingy, delicate lace wool dresses were off-set by small leather corsets and jackets. Traditional sweater patterns were recreated on dresses, and black and white plaid suits looked like punk versions of Scottish kilts. Prints and embroideries of wild flowers from the highlands made their way onto soft leather ruffles, corseted jackets and sheer floaty dresses. The show ended with a collection of dramatic gowns that seemed to tell the tale of a devastatingly beautiful shipwreck.
9 Trends:

1. 80s glamour

Shiny vinyl-like fabrics and lame in gold and silver are back! Channel your favourite 80s era glam-girl to get this trend right. Wear a shiny skirt with a regular shirt for a touch of glamour or go the whole hog with a one-shouldered metallic mini-dress worn with curly hair and a lot of shimmery eye-shadow.

2. Hot Pink

This ultra-feminine hue was the colour of the season. While more pale versions were seen in a few shows like Zuhair Murad and Hermès among others, the one we’re excited to try is the eye-popping hot pink, seen everywhere including Valentino and Balenciaga.

3. Innerwear as outerwear

Anyone who lives in the real world and isn’t a Hadid or Kardashian will probably not be too happy about the return of this trend. With no regard for the impracticality of this trend, runways at Paris were awash with sheer gowns and blouses that resembled lingerie. Slip dresses and robes of the kind that screen-sirens in the 30s probably wore were ubiquitous. The only way we recommend trying this trend is by layering slip dresses and lace-trimmed separates with solid, non-see through clothes.

4. Slogans

Slogans and visible branding are back. Maria Grazia Chiuri called for a Dior revolution along with asking everyone to be feminists, while at Stella McCartney, the designer thanked girls for staying away from leather and fur. Saint Laurent brought back its iconic YSL logo, seen on earrings and the heels of stilettos.

5. Tiny bags

While the opposite of this trend was also seen at shows like Balenciaga and Celine, we were especially delighted by the too-tiny-to-store anything bags seen at shows like Valentino and Chloe. The whimsical shapes too will make dressing up fun, come spring. The hottest selling tiny accessory of the season though will be the Louis Vuitton petite malle iphone cases.

6. Ruffles

While some designers like Off-White and Alexander McQueen had more modern, architectural ruffles, others like Galliano and Dior showed their traditional version on gowns. However, the most common use of ruffles this season was on the sleeves and neck-lines of high-necked, almost Edwardian blouses. A great way to wear the otherwise girly, fussy trend? Pair them with luxe-casual pants or even shorts à la Dries Van Noten.

7. Ruching and pleating

Ruching, especially with drawstrings was a common texture used by designers, giving a fresh spin to previously used silhouettes. Others used gentle pleating to great effect. Especially beautiful were the geometric, architectural pleats seen at Junya Watanabe.

8. Retro florals

All over florals, including multiple layers in the same print were a common sight on runways. How to tell if the florals you’re sporting are on trend? See if they remind you of old carpets, retro swimsuits or vintage curtains.

9. Power suit

To put it quite simply, the power suit is back! The one from Dynasty, from Working Girl, the exaggerated, shoulder-padded one from the 80s. The good thing is that the shoulder-padding can be as large or small as you like, from Balenciaga to Saint Laurent.

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