Hautest Takeaways From Paris Fashion Week AW17
This season, Paris Fashion Week ended with a bang. Chanel’s rocket launch was matched by Louis Vuitton’s spectacular show held for the first time, inside one of the central atriums of the Louvre. Indian designers whose presentations made us proud included Amit Aggarwal and Rahul Mishra.
As international fashion month has drawn to a close, you can catch up on the hottest trends from New York, London, and Milan. Below we’ve rounded up the best shows and hottest trends seen at Paris Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2017…
Maria Grazia Chiuri was speaking to the millennials with this collection. Blue in all its variations and associations was the common thread that connected the entire collection. There was plenty of denim — stiff and utilitarian, but chic. The hautest accessory that you can expect to see all over the streets next season is the black leather beret that all the models at Dior wore. There were also easy jumpsuits, skirt suits and the Bar jacket re-imagined with a hood. Eveningwear in the form of familiar mini dresses and tulle bustier dresses came with astronomical embroidery. The collection had something for every kind of woman and Chiuri’s army of girls in blue workwear jackets, construction denim overalls and taffeta skirts proved it.
This season’s Louis Vuitton collection, in spite of being shown inside the Louvre amid 17th and 18th century sculptures was a down-to-earth one. The choice of venue, a multicultural icon of the world, conveyed a message — that fashion has no borders. Ghesquiere’s signatures touches of futurism, glossy black leather, a French casual-chic were all present. Innovations included a wool fabric that was made to look like denim, patchworked fur and glassy-looking pants. Being Louis Vuitton, naturally the clothes were uber-sophisticated, but they were also a mixed wardrobe for different kinds of urban women. The cropped flare pants, tough boots, motocross jackets, furs, knee-length slip dresses and asymmetrical sweaters were all accessible garments for easy city-living.
For her collection for Alexander McQueen this season, Sarah Burton and her team visited Cornwall, where they drew influences from the landscape, its flora and fauna and its small subculture of pagans. Although the show was as magical and evocative as people have come to expect of Sarah Burton, it was also surprisingly youthful and grounded at the same time — thus marrying the traditions of the past with the present. It was also a celebration of female power, with symbols of witches and witchcraft, medieval tapestries and lace that featured kissing doves. To uphold the traditions of the house she was representing, she also presented a range of pantsuits, coats and jackets. The clothes were exquisite in their details and unmatched in their flights of imagination.
Dries Van Noten
The designer celebrated his 100th show, by bringing back models who have walked for him over the years, wearing clothes that were remixed and reimagined versions of his older collections. Reused prints included paisleys, Japanese kimono prints and chintzy wallpaper among others. Impeccable tailoring, the designer’s typical mastery over colour and his unique styling were all on display. The mood appeared to be nostalgic and the atmosphere celebratory. Models of all ages walked the runway and looked completely at ease in his creations, thus highlighting the women who wear the Dries Van Noten clothes and not the other way round.
Demna Gvasalia once again outdid himself in his attempts to create something new from Cristobal Balenciaga’s heritage. The boxy coats, jackets and puffers were buttoned to one-side and made to look off-kilter but cool. Pencil skirts were made of draped car mats and and bags looked like wing mirrors. Also part of the daywear looks were printed dresses, chunky, oversized sweaters and last season’s fabric-draped stocking boots. To celebrate Balenciaga’s 100th anniversary, Demna looked into the archives and closed the show with a sequence of nine stunning couture gowns – voluminous and modern and original while still being reminiscent of the house founder’s visionary designs.
From left to right: Alexander McQueen, Céline, Haider Ackermann, Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Mugler
The Paris runways saw many designers reinterpret traditional menswear tailoring to suit their kind of woman. From draped coats and jackets and boxy ones to nipped waists and pointed shoulders, the reign of the pantsuit – in many variations – continues. Who said workwear has to be dull?
From left to right: Acne Studios, Each x Other, Isabel Marant, Issey Miyake, Rahul Mishra
Yet another menswear favourite was repurposed for women this season. The pinstripe is going to be everywhere come next fall. A quiet accompaniment to make any outfit cool, we especially love the way Isabel Marant used it as a transition piece for the party girl.
Check the Right Boxes
From left to right: Chanel, Fenty x Puma, Giambattista Valli, Junya Watanabe, Off-White, Stella McCartney
Checks of all shapes and sizes, from tweed and houndstooth to plaid and tartan were seen on the catwalks, but these typically boring fabrics were given a fresh spin, with some designers even creating sexy minidresses and other deconstructing them to make them more grunge.
From left to right: Balenciaga, Chanel Isabel Marant, Off-White, Paco Rabanne, Saint Laurent
While metallics were on more than one runway at other fashion weeks, Parisian designers seemed to favour silver in particular. Not just for the party girls of Saint Laurent, patches and hints of silver can even elevate daytime looks. You can also indulge your 90s nostalgia by going all out.
From left to right: Giambattista Valli, Issey Miyake, Loewe, Sacai, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino
The freshest length of the season is the midi. While there were plenty of mini-skirts on display too, the midi-length looks are the ones that stood out. Dresses and skirts, often with asymmetric hems and worn with anything from biker jackets to chunky sweaters were ubiquitous.
From left to right: Acne Studios, Ellery, Fenty x Puma, Mugler, Loewe, Valentino
A colour carried over from Spring, this yellow is the perfect shade to go with your fall wardrobe. From leather dresses to minis and jackets, a burst of yellow will brighten and warm up any drab winter ensemble.