| 10 JUL 2017

The Indian Sartorial Imagination Through the Lens of 11 Designers

From block-printing to intricate embroidery and faultless draping techniques, we chart the evolution of these innovators through their most memorable silhouettes

Rohit Bal
Mughal Minotaurs

Left to right: On Mansi: embroidered velvet jacket, jalabiya, both from Couture 2016. On Diya: golden tissue and ivory jalabiya, mulmul jalabiya (worn inside), both from Couture 1991. Juttis, by Rohit Bal. Metal headgear, both by stylist, with Trash Talk Studio.

Manish Arora
Supernova Pop

Left to right: On Anugraha: printed dress, SS 2008. On Aditi: printed bodysuit, SS 2006. Necklace, by Manish Arora. On Manvitha: printed jacket, flared pants and headgear, all from SS 2008. On Rakshita: pink corseted bustle dress, SS 2009. Choker, from Outhouse, New Delhi. Headgear, stylist’s own. On Deveney: scaled-sleeve dress, AW 2008. On Namrata: 3D dress, SS 2013. Headgear, by Manish Arora. On Mansi: embellished dress, SS 2011. Headgear, stylist’s own. Earrings, all from Outhouse, New Delhi. Footwear, all by Manish Arora.

Satya Paul
Pattern Recognition

Left to right: On Shreya: peacock feather sari, 2006. On Diya: rainbow printed sari, 2006. On Mansi: paint splatter sari, by Gauri Khan, for Satya Paul, 2016.

Gaurav Gupta
Art Of The Drape

Left to right: On Rakshita: velvet short jacket, AW 2011; metallic gown, Couture 2013; ivory gown (in model’s hand), AW 2015. On Mansi: multi-zipper asymmetrical trench coat, AW 2008. Encrusted veils, both from The Source, Mumbai.

Abraham & Thakore
Futuristic Flare

Left to right: On Anugraha: linen sequinned jacket, AW 2012; wool striped pants, AW 2002. On Mansi: tussar silk brocade top, pants, both from AW 2014. On Amrita: khadi cutwork top, trousers, both from AW 2000. On Krithika: muga silk jacket, pants, both from AW 2014. Customised gold-plated earrings, all from Kichu, Jaipur. Footwear, all by Abraham & Thakore.

Rahul Mishra
Optical Allusions

Left to right: On Anugraha: merino wool hand-embroidered trench jacket, AW 2014; pants, SS 2015. On Suzanne: 3D hexagon pleated dress, SS 2016; organza off-shoulder butterfly gown, AW 2010. Platform sandals, both by Rahul Mishra.

Ritu Kumar
Print Revivalist

Left to right: On Aditi: coat, print dress, both from AW 2016. Silver earrings, necklace and payal, all from Amrapali, silver cuffs (worn on the hand and feet), from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai. Pants, model’s own. On Suzanne: jamavar-motif printed kurta, palazzo pants, both from AW 2016. Earrings, necklace, both from Amrapali; kada, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai. On Sanna: printed cape, velvet suit, both from AW 2017. Earrings, necklace, both from Amrapali; kada, from Silver Streak. On Shreya: hand-block coat, 1988; embroidered mandarin collar kurta, AW 2016. Maang tikka, earrings and payal, all from Amrapali; kadas, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai. On Namrata: printed panelled dress, pants, both from AW 2017. Kadas, from Kichu, Jaipur. Earrings, maang tikkas, cuffs (worn on feet) and payal, all from Amrapali; kamarbandh, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai. On Diya: block-printed tunic and pants, both from 1988. Silver earrings, cuffs, all from Amrapali, Mumbai. Printed saris (used in the backdrop), all by Ritu Kumar.

Sabyasachi
Feminine Allure

Left to right: On Gayle: embroidered jumpsuit, SS 2011; studded pumps, by Christian Louboutin X Sabyasachi. Hairband, cutwork bib, both by Sabyasachi. Earrings, from Silver Streak; bracelet, from Amrapali. Both in Mumbai. On Deveney: embroidered jumpsuit, SS 2011; studded wedges, by Christian Louboutin X Sabyasachi. Earrings, ring, both by Sabyasachi. On Namrata: embroidered dress, pants, both from Couture 2015.

Savio Jon
Surfing The Nets

Left to right: On Krithika: bandhini-draped pinafore with slip, SS 2009. On Anjali: rhinestone-embellished shift dress, silk draped salwar, both from Resort 2007. On Amrita: copper shredded and draped top, Artisanal 2014; red silk-draped salwar, AW 2016. On Anugraha: blue gingham twin shirt pinafore, SS 2008; marble-dyed silk shift dress, Resort 2016. Sunglasses, jewellery, bags and footwear, all from Savio Jon.

Left to right: On Manvitha: shift dress, by Manish Arora, AW 2008. Stockings, stylist’s own. On Suzanne: smoking dress, by Manish Arora, AW 2012. Headgear, boots, both by Manish Arora.

Péro
Tactile Form

Left to right: On Deveney: denim jacket, embroidered dress and headpiece, all from SS 2015; mashru jacket, SS 2017. On Gayle: crochet top, cotton top, skirt, denims and headpiece, all from SS 2015. On Suzanne: patchwork jacket, cotton top, cotton dress and culottes, all from SS 2010; beanie, boots and gloves, all from SS 2014. On Rakshita: woollen coat, woollen jumper, top, tartan pants, handknit sweater (worn as headwrap) all from AW 2016; socks AW 2014. On Mansi: woollen coat trousers, woollen jumper, printed shirt, and military khaki jacket (on window sill) all from AW 2015; hat AW 2013. All accessories used in backdrop, by Péro.

Kallol Datta
Surface Tension

Left to right: On Krithika: printed wrap jacket, printed kurta and trousers, all from AW 2012. On Namrata: foil-printed overlay, SS 2017; crab dress, printed pants, both from AW 2008. On Amrita: 3D back fold spine dress, SS 2013. Hijabs, all from Kallol Datta 1955.

Note: SS stands for Spring-Summer collection. AW stands for Autumn-Winter collection.