Style And Substance

Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW), a coveted event on the Indian fashion calendar, turns 25 this year, a milestone that has been cause for much celebration. And this backdrop provided the perfect foil to champion talents whose labels’ debuts made a mark.

Through an exclusive shoot, we bring into focus five promising labels: That Antiquepiece by Yash Patil, Quarter by Somya Lochan and Abhichiq by Abhishek Shinde; Subtle Shuttle Studio, a collaboration between Anmol Sharma — one of the 2020 GenNext winners for his label Dhatu Design Studio — and Sanyukta Garg (of The House Of Chandra Silk); and Label Ajrakh Gharana by ajrakh artisan Zaid Khatri.

While Patil, Lochan and Sharma — the trio who have been selected for the prestigious GenNext programme — may well be the ones to look out for,  Sharma and Garg made their presence felt in the FDCI Stockroom. The showcase of the latter’s new venture in LFW also marked Sharma’s debut in the Stockroom. Khatri, part of the Artisan Designers show that featured graduates from Anjar’s Somaiya Kala Vidya, similarly stood out thanks to the rich aesthetics of Label Ajrakh Gharana that put front and centre the traditional Indian hand-block printing technique that received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag last year.

The latest edition also made us privy to a broadening of horizons, and markets. Although Lochan started off as a menswear designer and Shinde previously designed for women, they currently design for both men and women, as evidenced by Lochan’s show that displayed her menswear and inaugural womenswear line. Meanwhile, Shinde chose to show his menswear line.

Through the history of its existence, the seminal platform has evolved and shape-shifted in response to changing times, reflecting morphing consumer demands and trends, culture shocks and upheavals, technological shifts and so on. Remember the phygital edition after the lockdown? If the first “back to normal” format in 2021 was received as freeing by a number of fashion enthusiasts working in the industry, others saw it as a suitable moment in time as any to quench the collective need to celebrate — it offered a kind of closure after a complicated, difficult time. At the same time, it was also fraught with controversies questioning its relevance in the current context — from questions of diversity and inclusion to hyperconsumerism.

The fact, however, is that its existential crisis is not new and despite all the issues that it has been plagued with, one truth stands tall: fashion and FROW have been democratised over the last 25 years, influencers and bloggers have joined the fray, and social media has taken over the world but amidst it all, fashion week still remains a singular platform for designers to emphasise values, tell stories, experiment and turn in some exceptional work that serve as inspiration to not just industry insiders but all those who look at fashion and style, textiles and techniques and age-old craftsmanship as avenues of artistry and self-expression. And with this new crop of designers, it’s much the same.

We talk to Patil, Lochan, Shinde, Sharma and Khatri to understand their expectations from the showcase, vision for future growth, creative processes and their distinct perceptions of the mega event.

Excerpts from conversations…

Yash Patil of That Antiquepiece
Delhi

What does it mean to you — personally and professionally — to showcase your collection at LFW?

It was a tremendous honour to show at Lakmé Fashion Week, and I feel privileged to have done so under the guidance of [GenNext mentor, fashion consultant, industry veteran and entrepreneur] Sabina Chopra. Having admired her work and aspired to collaborate with her, it was a dream come true to have her guide us for our inaugural show on such a prestigious platform. Not to forget that we also got to make our debut alongside my best friend Somya Lochan, with whom we share a studio in the capital. This milestone has opened doors to exciting professional opportunities, and introduced us to talented individuals and brands with whom we look forward to collaborating in the future.

What are some of the new or unique elements that you have introduced this season?

This collection delves deeper into surface and sculpting silhouettes, seamlessly integrating handwoven textiles into our brand language while avoiding stereotypes. We explored surface techniques, including zari knits, crochet and zardozi, and used various metals in the form of gota, sequins and bullion. Military jacket embroideries were reimagined on skirts while three-dimensional crochet techniques created intricate pieces in zari, not thread. We also experimented with using zari to craft locks of hair and braids that adorned dresses. Handwoven gyaser was used to sculpt our dresses (such as the black dress featured in the shoot). Working with narrow panels no wider than 25 inches required meticulous mitring to create silhouettes — a labour-intensive task that proved to be highly fulfilling.

How do you expect this showcase to shape your brand’s journey? Where do you see yourself going from here?

The showcase is going to lead to a lot of avenues not only for the clothes but also the accessories that caught the eye, be it our antique Mango bag or the Bunny bag. We’re in the process of creating these in limited edition. Moving forward, we could explore a home textile range or even a few other textile techniques which could fuse with our hand-done prints that are being used in our one-of-a-kind sarees — the possibilities are endless.

Somya Lochan of Quarter
Delhi

What does it mean to you — personally and professionally — to showcase your collection at LFW?

It feels surreal. This experience has been a breakthrough in terms of my understanding of the market — what it demands, what it expects from Quarter and, additionally, what Quarter wants from it. It was a moment of realisation, a glimpse into all that we aspire to be. A year ago, I wasn’t even sure if people would notice our brand’s launch and now, here we are, walking down the runway.

What are some of the new or unique elements that you have introduced this season?

This collection marked the launch of our womenswear line. In my early conversations with my mentor Sabina Chopra, I told her that I wasn’t sure if I could pull it off. But she effortlessly guided us, helping us to find our own voice within womenswear. Since I’m being completely candid here, I’ll admit that for the longest time, I questioned our approach to creation. We didn’t follow the conventional path of inspiration boards and mood boards. Instead, we looked at it as a live experiment and engaged in deep conversations about vulnerabilities and emotions. We worked with stylist Manisha Melwani to explore how grief physically manifests, particularly on the face. The black dots we incorporated using make-up were a direct representation of that exploration.

How do you expect this showcase to shape your brand’s journey? Where do you see yourself going from here?

Honestly, I’m just as excited as anyone else to see where this takes us. Every day, I feel incredibly grateful that Quarter is evolving at its own pace and in its own direction. Although we have a clear strategy for expanding both globally and within India — while always staying true to our foundational pillars — there’s something thrilling about watching it all unfold. The overwhelming response to our womenswear debut has reinforced our determination to officially launch the line and expand into ethnic and workwear categories. We’re also excited to introduce new interventions with himroo, a craft close to our hearts. Beyond that, we plan to explore new artisan clusters and actively work towards circular production, ensuring that the value system remains at the core of our growth.

Abhishek Shinde of Abhichiq
Mumbai

What does it mean to you — personally and professionally — to showcase your collection at LFW?

Lakmé Fashion Week has always been a space that fosters creativity, and showcasing Abhichiq here for the first time is honestly huge for me. It is not just about showing a collection. It’s about sharing myself, my vision, my story, and a way of dressing I’ve believed in for so long which is truly an extension of how I see myself as a creative person. Seeing it come to life on this stage feels like a dream and I’m just grateful to have had the opportunity to put my work out into the world.

What are some of the new or unique elements that you have introduced this season?

I wanted to take classic menswear and infuse it with a sense of adventure and nostalgia. My line Ciao is about effortless travel-ready dressing that is playful yet rooted in craftmanship. I have always been drawn to textiles and I have focused on creating easy yet interesting fabrics in the past. But with Ciao, I finally explored surface ornamentation for the first time. We played around with hand embroidery and hand-block prints, and it felt like such a natural fit for the brand. The outcome feels true to Abhichiq — thoughtful, craft-infused, and full of character. Also, the way we approached layering and fluid tailoring adds a fresh take on how men can style their wardrobes.

How do you expect this showcase to shape your brand’s journey? Where do you see yourself going from here?

This showcase sets the tone for what Abhichiq stands for. Slow, thoughtful fashion with a strong artisanal soul. It has been amazing to see people warming up to the collection. From here, I just want to keep experimenting, telling stories and exploring crafts. The goal is simple — reach more people, collaborate and create pieces that feel effortless and expressive, and are built to last. I keep telling myself that this is just the beginning.

Anmol Sharma of Subtle Shuttle Studio
Delhi

What does it mean to you — personally and professionally — to showcase your collection at LFW?

The five days of fashion week presented a chance to showcase my work, network and interact with fellow creatives. The LFW Stockroom is an opportunity to obtain unfiltered customer responses. You also get a chance to see the clientele your collection is vibing with, and you get to meet with them one-on-one.

What are some of the new or unique elements that you have introduced this season?

In a quiet corner of a heritage home in Bhagalpur, over 3,000 fabric swatches lay forgotten. These are the product of a centuries-old handloom weaving tradition that has been passed down generations. Each piece, a testament to countless creative spirits, has been woven over seven decades. Now, thanks to a family member who managed to unearth and restore these textile treasures, they found new life at our studio. Working with these swatches was like having an intimate dialogue with time itself. From this archive emerged the debut collection of Subtle Shuttle, a handmade clothing programme designed by my label Dhatu Design Studio in partnership with House of Chandra Silk. The line Counting Stars is inspired by heirloom fabrics and reimagined for today’s world. We’ve re-engineered these swatches to suit the climate, and used them to construct bold statement pieces and classic silhouettes. When we re-engineered the heirlooms, we tried to keep them as close to the original as possible.

Zaid Khatri of Label Ajrakh Gharana
Bhuj

What does it mean to you — personally and professionally — to showcase your collection at LFW?

This was my first showcase at Lakmé Fashion Week and it is the beginning of a new chapter for me. My designs, which utilise handwork, block prints and elements of paintings, symbolise my passions. This experience boosted my personal confidence. My collection will be available at the Design Craft store that displays the works of artisan designer graduates from Somaiya Kala Vidya, an educational institute that empowers traditional artisans from Kutch.

What are some of the new or unique elements that you have introduced this season?

I have experimented with the traditional block-print technique by incorporating elements of painting. My designs present a unique blend of deep textures and colours, giving the audience a new interpretation of traditional art. This experiment is my attempt to bring new life and freshness to handmade art.

How do you expect this showcase to shape your brand’s journey? Where do you see yourself going from here?

I am confident that this opportunity will help take my brand journey to new heights and give me a chance to showcase my art on a national and international level. Going forward, I will be looking for collaborations and opportunities that will help ajrakh gain wider recognition. This is a crucial part of my creative journey.

Zaid Khatri’s responses were translated from Hindi by Aradhana Nagpal.