India Couture Week 2024 — Through the Lens of Three Wedding Photographers

Indian couture occupies a unique position within the design ecosystem. Unlike anywhere else, it purposefully targets the evergreen bridal market. The “Big Fat Indian Wedding” seems to only get bigger with every passing year — more events, more guests, more far-flung experiences. And wedding photographers and their documentation of personal events become the bridge between the runway and the client, thereby aiding, in a sense, in keeping couture alive.

Three wedding photographers talk to us about their role and how they hope it will evolve in the days to come.

Excerpts from the conversation…

The elements at India Couture Week 2024 that made an impression on you…

Naman Verma (NV): The fashion and style at the shows evoked a sense of timeless elegance and modern sophistication. The intricate detailing and the way traditional elements were blended with contemporary designs particularly resonated with me. The runway shows were not just displays of clothing but stories told through fabric and design. For example, at Gaurav Gupta’s show, the transition from night-to-day colours was absolutely breathtaking. The seamless shift in hues and the innovative use of fabrics created a mesmerising effect that captured the essence of both tradition and modernity. This experience underscored the power of couture to tell compelling visual stories which I strive to capture through my photography.

Ashvin Kumar (AK): Styling is a personal passion. Coming here reminded me why I’m so passionate about it.

Pankaj Dahalia (PD): The shows were a stunning fusion of art and skill. I was particularly impressed by the Amit Aggarwal show and his interpretation of time. It was a futuristic collection that transported us to a completely different realm.

Do wedding photographers regularly attend couture shows?

NV: While it’s not a regular occurrence, those who are deeply embedded in the fashion and bridal industry often attend these shows. I received the invite through a friend who is a bridal stylist. Attending couture shows allows us to stay updated with emerging trends, understand the evolving aesthetics of bridal fashion, and build valuable connections with designers and other industry professionals. The exposure helps us to bring new ideas to our clients, ensuring that their wedding photography is stylish, contemporary and reflective of both their personal taste and the latest in bridal couture. Brides often look to me for advice regarding designs and what might photograph better. My attendance at these shows allows me to provide informed recommendations which can influence their choices in bridal attire as well as the overall wedding aesthetics. This guidance can be invaluable in creating a cohesive and fashionable look for their wedding day, ensuring that they feel confident.

AK: I am attending a couture show for the first time and I was invited by individual designers.

PD: I was invited by media publications for whom I was covering the event. While not typical, some wedding photographers attend couture shows to gain new inspiration. Attending these shows and looking at an alternative treatment of, say, lehngas is inspiring. It’s important to reimagine and challenge the old vision. This directly reflects in the new work that one does.

What is the role of wedding photography in the realm of Indian couture, especially since so much of it is bridalwear?

NV: It captures the essence of the designs and brings them to life in the context of real weddings. Since a significant portion of Indian couture is bridalwear, wedding photographers help in showcasing how these pieces look and feel on the big day while creating lasting memories for the brides. Wedding photographers also serve as a bridge between designers and brides, highlighting the intricate details and craftsmanship that might otherwise go unnoticed. Through carefully curated photos, we emphasise the texture, colour and fit of each outfit, allowing potential clients to visualise themselves in these stunning creations. This synergy between wedding photography and couture ensures that the artistry of bridal fashion is celebrated.

AK: I think wedding photography should play a much more pivotal role. Especially now that it is all about the visuals being in sync — right from the clothes and ensembles to the venues and, ultimately, the wedding films and photographs. A lot of brides and grooms ask us for styling tips or ask us what to wear or who to get in touch with. HOTC (House On The Clouds), where I work, takes a very involved approach with our brides and grooms and their families.

PD: I see wedding photography taking inspiration from design languages, moods, trends and approaches. And the visual representation of Indian couture does get influenced heavily by wedding photography.

Do you actively cultivate a relationship with bridalwear designers?

NV: I have established relationships with several designers who specialise in bridalwear. These relationships often develop over time through collaborations, mutual events and a shared passion for creating memorable bridal experiences. Networking at events like India Couture Week also helps in building and strengthening these connections. For instance, I had the privilege of shooting Anita Dongre’s son Yash Dongre and Benaisha Kharas’ intimate wedding in Mussoorie in 2019. Additionally, I captured the larger-than-life wedding of Kaabia Grewal, the founder of Outhouse Jewellery, in Vietnam. I shot a wedding with the Bosphorus strait as a backdrop, where the entire family wore Tarun Tahiliani couture. Working closely with celebrity stylist Tanya Vohra (of Clad, a wedding styling service) and shooting her wedding was also a benchmark in my career.

PD: I have been cultivating a relationship with Indian designers who make bridal wear. Last year, I shot for a streetwear brand born in the streets of Kolkata; they reimagined the bridal lehnga and took a completely contemporary approach. These relationships are grown by collaborating on ideas that challenge you to think beyond the ordinary and tell stories with authenticity.

Do you keep an eye out for trends in wedding photography?

NV: Keeping an eye on trends is essential to staying relevant and offering the best service to clients. It influences my work by inspiring new techniques and compositions that I can incorporate into my photography. Though I personally love the timeless aesthetics — classic compositions, natural light and genuine moments — that never go out of style, I believe in blending these with contemporary trends to create that perfect balance. This approach ensures that my photographs not only capture the essence of the moment but also resonate with current sensibilities, giving my clients a collection of images that are both timeless and authentic.

AK: As a company, we’re always evolving and experimenting. And that is what influences the way we approach a wedding — new ways of capturing moments, new angles. And over the years, our approach has become a benchmark for others to follow. So, no, we don’t follow trends as such.

PD: My work for my wedding clients is mostly inspired by them, their story and energy…but I do try to keep up with trends in wedding photography to offer fresh ideas.

Do shows and designers influence your photography?

NV: Being exposed to the latest designs and understanding the designer’s vision helps me to capture the bridal outfits in a way that highlights their beauty and uniqueness. It also helps in aligning my photography style with current fashion trends, making my work more appealing to contemporary brides. Moreover, networking with like-minded individuals from the industry enriches my professional journey. Collaborating and sharing ideas with designers, stylists and other creative professionals inspire me and keep my approach fresh and innovative.

AK: When you catch the first glimpse of designs in cases where the designer has hit it out of the park, it really expands your horizons. Even though this was my first time at Couture Week, it gave me so much to look forward to and experiment with in terms of looks, styling, designs, colours and themes. It gave me an insight into what might photograph well or how it may look on certain couples.

How do you see the role of wedding photographers evolving within the Indian bridal and couture industry?

NV: As storytellers, we can bridge the gap between fashion and real-life celebrations, showcasing the beauty of couture in the context of weddings. I envision wedding photographers becoming integral to the creative processes of designers — from the initial stages, to understand the inspiration and vision behind each collection. This deeper involvement can help in crafting narratives that are emotionally resonant, capturing the essence of the couture pieces as they come to life in the context of a wedding.

AK: I’d say the relationship [that Verma talks of] does exist but I see it move forward with a depth that we haven’t explored yet. We bring that special something to it all. We add timelessness to the equation — the clothes, the couture, the wedding day…. Seeing the visuals of the happy couple in ensembles captured in their full glory makes those moments come alive even years later. We add the longevity element to the entire equation.