Trend Report: Menswear Fall Winter 2015
On the assembly line, menswear does a flip with emphasis on casual and sportswear. Each brand impressed with not just clothes, but cutting-edge concepts. And, just as Fall Winter calls for intense layering, the runway showcased newer techniques, fabrics and avant-garde versions of the trench, blazer and jacket. Androgyny had a serious moment, as haute couture tried to erase the gender divide. Verve decodes fashion’s favourite brands, and prepares you for your investments in winter.
Kris Van Assche’s collection for Dior Homme was as crisp as freshly ironed laundry. The white shirt and tie made a regular appearance tearing down the casualness of any outfit.
Cutting edge: Black took centre stage and the lack of colour only made sure that nothing could take away from the sleek silhouettes. Parkas and white shirts paired with sneakers is — we second — the only way forward.
We love: the sleek black tie paired with leather jogging pants.
Famous for their 70s vibe, Gucci once again didn’t let go of the retro undertone in their men’s collection. The lanky models in soft feminine fabrics will definitely remind you of The Beatles.
Cutting edge: Taking androgyny to the next level, Gucci managed to blur the gender divide with chiffon blouses, lace gilded tops and governor jackets. Strong prints and experimental designs only showcased the brand’s love for urban fashion.
We love: the thin lanky bows and rise of the turtle neck.
Véronique Nichanian showcased a collection that defined urban fashion. You can expect refined luxury, subtlety and graphic accents.
Cutting edge: The return of pinstripes and glen plaid is welcomed with a blend of sportswear. Suits are paired up with trackpants, and we can finally take comfort wear to the office.
We love: the pin-stripe sweatshirt and zippered cardigan.
Kim Jones’ collection for Louis Vuitton was a tribute to the late Christopher Nemeth. Jones chose four original prints from Nemeth’s archives and overlaid them on shearling coats, cashmere sweatshirts and denims.
Cutting edge: Activewear was interwoven with the trademark classic look, but the devil was indeed in the detailing and the effective use of prints.
We love: the very-limited edition suitcase in flocked design.
It was a collection that incorporated the ‘everything’ of everything. Labelling his showcase as ‘Clasically Bohemian’, Christopher Bailey had on display mirror-embroidered shirts, dramatically huge ponchos, leopard prints and camo.
Cutting edge: The India-inspired mirror-work jackets maybe a toughie to pull off when it comes to the streets, but what actually worked was the spot-on layering of fabrics and prints.
We love: the nerdy glasses that uplifted every look.
Call it the nerdy boy syndrome, but Silvia Venturini Fendi spotlighted bookish glamour in her collection for Fendi. She took classic fabrics like corduroy and suede, and turned them around, quite literally.
Cutting edge: Nothing was quite what it seemed. Taking the peekaboo effect to clothing, each garment could be flipped, like the brown suede coat that reverses to grey leather.
We love: Fendi’s new apple bag bug charms, of course!
Miuccia’s collection for Prada was like an ode to the Industrial Revolution with stark, severe and uniform-ish ensembles. You could almost hear Pink Floyd’s Another brick in the wall playing in the background.
Cutting edge: ‘Gender is a context and context is often gendered’, read the manifesto that described the collection. Taking menswear to the next level, Miuccia Prada showcased a subset of women’s clothing – a line of sharper ensembles borrowed from the boys.
We love: the return of the double-breasted coat.
Taking sustainability to haute couture, Stefano Pilati made optimum use of Harris Tweed (which is a sustainable fabric) and glazed it with a plasticised coating. It was a day dedicated to outerwear and of course, the eco-system.
Cutting edge: Ermenegildo Zegna used noble fibres from the house as well as original archive Harris tweeds known for their authenticity and recyclability. Besides the earthy tones that personified Pilati’s concern for the environment, one couldn’t miss the monochromatic suede jackets layered over turtlenecks.
We love: the glossy jackets paired with loose-fit trousers.
Dolce & Gabbana
Huge prints, graphic designs and super structured ensembles is exactly what Mario Puzo’s iconic Sicilian family would sport in a modern time. Love, family and community dominated the crux of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s collection.
Cutting edge: We saw the best of power dressing in the form of printed suits, Wellington boots, and even zippered sweatshirts. The coolest was of course, prints of families, vintage renditions of the nativity and amateur cartoons.
We love: the three-piece brocade suit, and the sporty freshman sweatshirt.
This sharp and modern collection by Alessandro Sartori for Berluti showcased a sporty undertone. Most of the trousers had ribbed cuffs, however, the leather jackets in darker tones is the reason we always have a soft spot for the bad boys.
Cutting edge: The collection was crafted from a new generation of fabric called the felted jersey. It was refreshing to see leather jackets and trenches as light as cardigans. Who says women won’t get their hands on these?
We love: the glaringly beautiful orange trench coat.
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