Top Shows And Hot Trends At Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
Some of the most reputed fashion brands of the world find their roots in Italy, with their legacies having created the most iconic moments in fashion history. While a different generation of designers are now at the helm of these houses, they’re still struggling between a glorious past, leaving little space for new perspectives to be seen. An important part is also that most of these brands have cultivated a certain aesthetic for themselves which they prefer strictly sticking by. And while it’s fine to reverance history with optimism and respect, what’s important is to not remain stagnant.
Creative director Alessandro Michele paid homage to the most glamourous stars – especially Elton John – of the 20th century, in a luscious pink velvet show, mystiqued with smoke and flashing lights. The collection was, so to say, a psychedelically delirious parade, inspired by various continents but seemingly outlandish. Dresses; right from frilly, floral and rouched to delicately old, bejewelled racing jackets, Prince of Wales checked suits, track jackets with slogans referencing the lives of the famous. While Gucci’s revenues soar, this collection was Michele’s way of slowing down and being able to explore the dynamic atmosphere he’s created there.
With the kind of collection that was lined up at Marni, one wouldn’t guess that Francesco Risso is a sophomore recruit as creative direcor at Marni. Inspired by two starkly different artists; Roald Dahl’s sumptuous wonder, ‘Willy Wonka’ and David Salle, the story was about a girl, skateboarding through a wardrobe spanning ages and worlds, like a mad but enchanting chase a “Hidden Treasure”, as titled. Original silhouettes boldly proportioned with couture-like craftsmanship of structure in beautiful textiles of brocade, horsehair, duchesse satin and taffeta, but seemingly made to look more wearable and just the right ounces of flora. Marni’s girl is the cute oddball, who Risso has found the perfect sweet spot for.
How would you celebrate your 20th anniversary as creative director at a brand founded by your parents, which will also be celebrating it’s 65th anniversary? By reminding everyone why and how you’ve made it so far and also, of course, a party! Angela Missoni lined up an elegantly easy set of clothes, with just the right touch of unconventionality; sheer, lacy dresses with full skirts, translucent knit bodysuits, chromatic and monochrome cardigans and leggings and Lurex. It was all accentuated with glorious, superhero-style capes and outlandish nun-like hats as homage to Balenciaga. Surely, A little party never killed nobody!
We all know the likes of the socio-political struggle that’s stirring around the world, and Miuccia Prada isn’t one to just take it lightly. This collection combined the ideologies of feminism, politics and art to rekindle fierceness and empowerment. Using the works of 8 graphic female comic artists on strongly tailored yet streetstyled clothes. Garments with evident creases created a rough yet feisty appeal. Feminine dresses and bustiers were styles with masculine shirts and trousers, some even with jeweled up panels or studs for that passionate bit of power.
It was an epic tribute to one of the most daring and innovative designers of the 20th century, from one sibling to another, as Donatella Versace’s collection retrospected into some of the most iconic garments, which were Gianni Versace’s inceptions. 20 years after the great designer’s violent demise, Donatella rose as a guardian of his aesthete, learning his predilections of feminism and deploying them with her own imagination. Elemental styles were resurrected, such as Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Baroque, Animalia, Butterflies, Tresor de la Mer, and reinterpreted as multiple garments. The finale was spectacular as the famous supers of the 90s, namely Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, and Helena Christensen donned gold chainmail dresses and walked commemoratively to George Michael’s “Freedom ’90”. Perhaps that is what catharsis felt like.