Top Shows And Hot Trends At London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
While the socio-political scenario in Britain might seem harsh, with the impending consequences of severing political ties with the EU and the very recent attack on London’s Underground, there seemed to be a mature sense of defiance in what the designers showcased at London Fashion Week. There was a resilient aura of eccentricity, creativity and diversity. While some collections took a step back into conservatism, others rekindled the city’s rebellious and experimentative fire.
One would think London’s air would be silent and calm after Brexit but Kane wants us to see the subversive manifestation of kinkiness. His muse, the perfect suburban wife who’s a cleanliness freak isn’t without her surreptitious charms. And who’s never curious about the happenings behind closed doors? The collection, while maintaining immaculate tailoring, incorporated quirky sheer sheaths and naughty underwear. Accessories were constructed from household cleaning objects such as mop strings, pegs and ribbon fasteners. Finally, there was also the return of the glam-croc, a nice finishing touch to the dark secrets of a domestic goddess.
Meditative and calm, Anderson embarked on the search for a sanctuary this season. Toning down the extremities we’re used to seeing in his past shows, the lineup was presented in a homely manner, using natural textiles such as linen, washed-out cotton sweatshirting, marled-yarn knit and soft Nappa leather, spanning trends of monochrome, colour-blocking and stripes in easy silhouettes. Footwear included comfortable linen and suede espadrille/desert boot hybrids. With a newfound undercurrent of ease, function and charm, Anderson showed us the importance of mindfulness and simple appreciation.
Katrantzou couldn’t have chosen a better time to regale us with memories of her childhood. Leaving her architectural and rigid aesthetic behind, she embraced fluidity with her detailed and couture-like marvels. Using nylon as a staple for skirts, her ensembles resembled inverted hot-air balloons, while the drawstrings made them feel sporty. Hama beads, a childhood favourite of hers, made for intensively patterned embroidery, while friendship bracelets were strung out on cocktail dresses and skirts.
Having studied architecture before pursuing fashion design, Roksanda has a predilection for sculptured silhouettes. This time, however, she brought about a gentle softness and liquidity, inspired by the fantastically folk, perhaps her way of being culturally removed from our world. She worked with fabrics such as raw silk and satin, transforming them into dresses, gowns, trousers, and jackets that exuded sophistication and sensuality. Balloon sleeves were emphasised upon and lent extravagant volume.
The designer’s collection channelled a unique aesthetic that was inspired by her china dolls in Victoriana dresses, which she recently rediscovered for her young daughter. The silhouettes played with volumes, proportions and layering, including puffed sleeves and pleated skirts. Ticking and blanket stitches were used to lend a sense of the ensembles being handcrafted and sequined flowers added an elegant Edwardian touch. The beauty of this collection lay in it being far removed from childishness, yet suitable enough to transport her customers to happy times.