The Sketches Behind Your Favourite Designer’s Ensembles At LFW S/S 2018
With ‘Songs of Summer’, Anita reintroduces ’50s inspired pleated midi skirts, jumpsuits, wrap tops, long line jackets, tunics and crop tops with light hand embroidery, zardozi and gottapatti details. Classic lehengas and draped saris in cool fabrics with customised flower patterns bridge the fashion eras of traditional and contemporary together for a bride to ensure that she looks resplendent, confident and radiant.
Payal Singhal’s ‘Saira’ dips into history, tracing the influence of Islam on art, textiles and architecture in regions like Turkey, Morocco, Persia, Mughal India, Iran, and Afghanistan. The collection features luxurious silks, jamavars and brocades accentuated with delicate organzas and tulle. Muted tones of rose, blue, mint are punctuated with deep solid hues of navy, violet and black while calling attention to time-honoured techniques that have been passed down for generations.
This season, the label’s classic florals are depicted by hand-drawn and tone-on-tone embroideries that explore zardozi work to infuse the charm of traditional artistry. Narrating the story of her collection ‘Pink ‘The Navy Blue of India’’, Anushree reveals a palette of peachy pinks that give way to fuchsia, finally fading in blush pink with an accent of mustard yellows. Soft fabrics like sheer organzas, pure silks and khadi cotton have been employed for the characterisation of the collection while highlighting the magic of pastels.
Saaksha & Kinni
The designer duo’s collection titled ‘Forza’, which is Italian for strength originated from the idea of looking at clothes as psychological armour. These include the angarkha, once worn by men in court and on the battlefields — a sharp piece of design that served to protect — and its flouncier cousin, the kedia, which was fierce in its femininity. Saaksha and Kinni have interpreted this ideology through the intermingling of bandhani and batik with the dark florals they have come to be known for.
SVA by Sonam and Paras Modi
This season, SVA’s collection titled ‘Dahlia’ draws inspiration from the backwaters of Kerala and the conspicuous twin qualities of elegance and dignity that it exudes. The spring/summer showcase borrows elements and motifs from the bageechas and backwaters of Kerala and merges it beautifully to create bespoke pieces and occasional hexagonal weaves for the label’s ensembles. Intricate motifs such as orchids, cane weaves and jaali patterns are translated onto outfits with sunset orange, salmon pink, forest green and desert-sand beige dominating this season’s hues.
Nishka’s muse is a force of nature who immerses herself in everything she takes on and her clothes reflect this philosophy — things you can wear anywhere and in many different ways. A gypsy girl at heart, she moves through the day in fluid silhouettes layered with structured pieces that empower her to feel strong and feminine at the same time. Fabrics such as crepe, tulle, georgette and cotton in a palette of power pastels, white, black and sand punctuated with bright orange, bubblegum pink and lime green give out major spring vibes.
The designer’s collection revolves around the adorable premise of a dot taking a walk inspired by renowned artist Paul Klee. The dot in question is an inherent part of his fabric that walks, runs, flies, stops and even plays a little hide and seek. Exploring mud resist techniques and various natural dye shades in the workshop of dyers in Jodhpur, Naushad confesses he was pleasantly surprised to see myriad hues of natural colours come to life.
Karishma Shahani Khan
Karishma’s collection is a love story that finds beauty in imperfection, focusing on bringing the human heart and its ability to love and accept to the forefront. Her narrative searches for unity in diversity and yearns for people, not stereotypes. Her ensembles explore a horizon where elements merge yet retain their individuality — a place where colours don’t determine whether you succeed or fail; a haven where race doesn’t bind you and gender doesn’t take away your rights.
Although a collection titled ‘Janaza’ (Arabic for funeral) might be considered morbid by some, it is Sumiran Kabir Sharma’s way of looking at death and loss as something unavoidable and therefore, not worthy of being mourned. He tries to celebrate this self-acceptance by creating fluid separates that blend in with each other showing how life and death — evident misfits — can be perfect together.
Each piece from this showcase is inspired by the celebrated Khadi and Mulmul of the past that is revived with new hand-embroidered panache with fine screen printing details. The designer’s desire to construct a new history sees him tailor reversible shirts with a different look on each side, Nehru jackets that are both sober and stylish and pants that frame you comfortably. The signature essence of this collection lies in its work on handwoven fabric brought to life by the women of ‘WomenWeave’ and workers of ‘Kala Swaraj Foundation.’
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