Trend Report: 10 Menswear Brands For SS17
This season at the menswear shows, colours were optimistic and saturated, trousers were mostly voluminous, Punk was a recurring reference, prints saw a revival, and travel and wanderlust appeared to be the ubiquitous theme of the season.
Kris Van Assche’s dark collection for Dior was one of contrasts — Punk and New Wave influences met uniform utility, sports luxe met rebellious formals. Industrial embellishments were seen on immaculate French tailoring. All these created a collection that would appeal to not just one, but many different kinds of dressers.
We love: The punk, printed versions of the French house’s trademark suits.
Kim Jones’ latest collection titled ‘Blueprint’, was a metaphor for returning to one’s roots. Metaphorically, it meant re-interpreting many of Louis Vuitton’s heritage pieces. Literally, it was a homecoming for Kim Jones, who included references to the various places he has called home. There were punk influences from London, seen in the transparent rubber, edgy zips and straps and use of mohair. African inspired prints, exotic skins and the shades of the Savannah were mixed throughout the collection. All of these, mixed with traditional French tailoring, made this an ideal collection for the globetrotter.
We love: The Masai-inspired tartan bomber and the blue exotic skin jacket.
Alessandro Michele’s last ever menswear only show was a re-iteration and evolution of the same Gucci aesthetic that has taken the fashion world’s imagination by storm. The underlying theme of the collection was travel, however it wasn’t just the physical act that was referenced. Michele’s myriad influences included Asian prints and silks and Donald Duck, a globetrotter himself. The clothes were luxurious, but with mass appeal. The colours were saturated, the embellishments and details, abundant, sly touches of humour and whimsy, effervescent. No one character or consumer appeared to be represented and that’s part of what makes Michele’s Gucci so charming.
We love: All the pieces Donald Duck appears on, as well as the light blue vest with a rabbit riding a horse.
Véronique Nichanian designed yet another chic and hyper-luxe collection, with lots of bomber jackets, stiff overcoats and narrow trousers in signature Hermès leather. The bright pops of colour – citrus yellow and regal purple – really elevated the collection.
We love: The tie and dye cardigan and jacket that gave these wardrobe basics some flavour and punch.
A very Mediterranean vibe of fun-in-the-sun was at the heart of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s collection for Fendi. Luxurious winter fur was replaced by comfortable terry cloth for the summer. Parkas were quilted, jackets were reversible, stripes — narrow and wide — were everywhere, shorts were short and the silhouette, relaxed and fluid.
We love: The cut-out sneakers with ankle strings, and the brown and blue jacket with the white terry cloth lining.
For the second consecutive season, Miuccia Prada used travel as the underlying theme of her collection. This was also guided by wanderlust. The clothes put a glamorous, high-fashion, Prada spin on hiking gear and on instances of formalwear. The pants were narrow or replaced by tights, worn with big, bulky backpacks and beautiful, lust-worthy cagoules. Spare shoes, bottles and other travel essentials were used as styling touches on a collection that defined utilitarian chic.
We love: The colourful sandals worn with socks and of course, those rain jackets.
Paul Smith showed a solidarity to peace by using bright colours generously through their collection. The signature elements of stripes and bold colours were used to enhance a collection featuring Sunday suits and sleek sportswear. More than the clothes themselves, we think the attitude they represent and their optimism for the future is truly infectious.
We love: The strawberry printed olive coloured jacket and the jumpsuits with rainbow collars.
Dries Van Noten
As is expected from a Dries Van Noten collection, the fabrics were the highlight of the show. Artisanal knits, prints that looked like old tapestries and camo print, also used in a patchwork with indigo fabrics, all came together more cohesively than they should. The designer’s talent with silhouettes was on display — this time they were fluid, relaxed and voluminous.
We love: The whole collection, especially those printed, strapped lace-up boots that almost look like socks worn with sandals.
Marni has always walked the fine line between awkward and chic. With this menswear collection, they revealed geek-chic of a whole new kind. The trousers were voluminous, as they have been this entire season. Velcro was used in unexpected and delightful ways — to cut out and re-attach parts of shirts and trousers and to fasten suits and jackets in the back. The use of contrasting, off-beat colours was typical of the brand. The result was a collection that was equal parts interesting, intellectual and fun, much like the Marni man.
We love: Everything with velcro, especially the pants.
Demna Gvasalia designed Balenciaga’s first menswear collection to be shown on a catwalk. Much like Cristóbal Balenciaga was, Gvasalia too is interested in the architecture of clothes. Hence, the collection focussed on volume play and featured a ton of immaculate, deliberate tailoring displaying creative silhouettes, new for menswear. Shoulders were either exaggeratedly wide or body-hugging and narrow. Trousers were voluminous and belted or tucked in and snug. Sportwear too was given the same treatment.
We love: The MA-1 bomber jackets, cropped and with a sharp, exaggerated shoulder.