Day 3: Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017
Inspired by the departing monsoons, Rahul Mishra returns with his trademark traditional techniques and handloom embroidery by skilled artisans. Depicting ornamental patterns and motifs of flora and fauna on Chanderis, Maheshwaris and Banarasi, each piece was cohesive yet distinct. The lotus, marigold and Arabian jasmine took centre-stage on kurtas, dupattas, lehengas, saris and jackets. Celebratory colours of kaleidoscopic yellow, purple, fuchsia, orange, red, coral and black were used, along with an assortment of pastel hues. Showstopper Shraddha Kapoor was a picture of elegance as she glided down the ramp in a gorgeous embellished monsoon crane lehenga with hand embroidered muga silk blouse and a chintz, scalloped, dupatta.
Falguni Shane Peacock X Farah Khan
The designer duo and jeweller teamed up to present ‘Cassiopeia’, an intergalactic enigma inspired by the space race. Space-age metallic micro minis and evening gowns glided down the runway with fitted silhouettes and floor-length skirts and capes. Futuristic geometric patterns were splashed with beads and maribou feathers. There was an assortment of singed chrome thorns and Moondust to match the exquisite jewellery by Farah Khan. Colours such as muted pink, nude, caramel, galaxy blue and glossy black came together with chrome-finished eclipses and starry ashes.
Known for his structural expertise, the designer presented moulded blouses, saree drape dresses and panelled flared skirts for his couture collection, ‘Monaco from the Heart of Kashi’. Inspired by the art and interiors of the Prince’s Palace of Monaco and Opera De Monte Carlo, the collection’s metallic palette of gold, silver, pewter and copper was accented with emerald, midnight blue and wine. He restored rich vintage Banarasi sarees and three-dimensional hand embroideries. Esha Gupta made for a glorious showstopper in a shocking blue and sunflower gold lehenga.
Caprese X Jodi
From totes and sling bags to satchels and wallets, the rainbow hues showcased by Caprese fit effortlessly into every stylish woman’s wardrobe. To match the bags, Jodi Life offered women a great fashion line called ‘Dress Like a Girl’ with Gauri Verma and Karina Laungani dreaming up perfect wardrobe options using local Indian craft techniques, which is their trademark for 100 percent natural Indian textiles with hand block printing. The look was strong but at times had a certain touch of happy elements that revealed a few masculine gender-fluid trousers.
With ‘Once Before, an Artist’s Wardrobe and Her Story’, Rina Singh put out a poetic and nostalgically romantic line characterised by soft, gentle layering. The fabric story had washed and overdyed linen, linen zari, linen wool and silk blended with metallic yarns. Gathered smocks with tonal embroidery, pea coats and blousons with discreet gold work, pinafores, front-tied soft coats and low waist dresses made for relaxed ensembles. The colour story offered ample options as a faded natural palette of cement, iron, indigo, cream and charcoal along with nude, washed dower, teal, indigo and blush pink created sepia-toned effects.
Exploring the scope for Luxe Knitwear, the designer’s collection drew heavily from outerwear staples with a subtle touch of extravagance. The line was an amalgamation of sweaters, cloaks, organza and woven pants, knitted sarees, coats and trenches with custom made flat knits and ribs, creating a mélange of abstract and amorphous shapes. The colour palette consisted of steel, slate and charcoal that was contrasted by tangerine, making the ensembles artsy. Kalki packed a punch as the showstopper in a lined long white top; while the pants were sheer with shimmer detailing of taar embroidery. A long white coat added to the exquisite look of the actress.
The designer’s collection was a mix of sharp tailoring blended with conventional fits. Sheath dresses with predominant colourful Madhubani prints, cropped tops, bell bottoms, tent dresses, palazzos, jumpsuits, skirts, jackets and shorts showcased diversity in her design aesthetics and overall versatility. For an artistic palette, a range of stretch, suede and handloom matka silks were merged with studio knitted rayon and silk zari knits. A new fabric was witnessed that blended Lycra with Banarasi silk yarns for a comfortable and modern look. Chitrangada Singh looked stunning in a printed trumpet dress that was daringly revealing yet, beautiful in multi-colours and striking embroidery as she closed the show.
Using the frescos from Ajanta caves as hand-painted Kalamkari on Kanchipuram silk; Gaurang blended the beauty of the two traditional mediums in ‘Chitravali’. Opting for natural dyes obtained from the bark flower and root, the final result was a kaleidoscope of red from pomegranate seeds, yellow from harde, blue from indigo, black by blending iron and jaggery green by fusing indigo and myno-balan for the magnificent colour story. The Kalamkari technique was incorporated cleverly on brightly coloured Kanchipuram silk brocades with glittering golden borders whose richness was further enhanced by using the Korvai weaving technique ideal for festive wear. When it comes to tradition, heritage and fashion all combined for the festive season, Gaurang’s was undoubtedly an heirloom offering that fashion connoisseurs will treasure.
Intricate detailing was the focal point of Vasundhara’s collection which was inspired by Indian flowers and included earrings, necklaces and rings with clever textures and finishes giving the jewellery a striking desirable imagery. Flowers chosen were tube roses, marigolds, hibiscuses, roses, closed lotuses and small buds; all turned into beautiful innovative pieces as bracelets, belts, head bands, brooches and some body jewellery. Some ornaments like the elaborate rose neckpiece, headband, bracelet with spokes of buds/tube roses and multi-use belt-cum-sash-cum-necklace really stood out. The grandest of all was a pearl body mesh with big hibiscus flowers and a bracelet of buds and rings.
The designer’s collection titled ‘Restricted 2.0’ was modern, with a minimal, chic line influenced by street signs that were intelligently projected on the garments. The ensembles varied from classic suits to well-tailored outfits. Jackets, leather vests with metallic zipper detailing, over-coats and long shirts with cowls had slogans printed creatively. Interesting fabrics such as flannel, leather, felt wool and knits were used to create variations with textures to show a different dimension. Charcoal black, smoke grey, maroon, olive, mint green, scarlet and violet created the perfect palette.
The designer’s silhouettes ranged from off-shoulder tops, long jackets and asymmetrical peplum blouses to long, flowing dresses and midis with plunging necklines and ruffle detailing. The outfits had 3D embellished flowers surfaced innovatively and vibrant prints depicted fun and modernity. The colour palette was playful and pleasant and had shades of magenta, military green, teal, tangerine, marsala and a hint of monochrome. Sarah Jane Dias glided down the runway vivaciously in a floor-length printed gown with criss-cross-back straps.
The collection by Sayantan Sarkar called ‘Children of War’ was inspired by Enyo the Goddess of War in Greek Mythology. Aimed at strong men and women who value equality, the line was both structured and fluid to match the theme. Bringing in a mix of menswear and womenswear, Sayantan offered fashionable contrasts in terms of constructed jackets and flowing silhouettes merging seamlessly on the catwalk. Womenswear had a marked androgynous touch with cropped militarised shirts, angular regimental jackets and knee-length shirts with four patched pockets and impressive buttons. Menswear was more martial and included a multi-pocket boiler suit and stylish double-breasted jackets equipped with shoulder epaulettes.
Sailesh Singhania | Indigene
Inspired by the beautiful Princesses of India who loved to innovate with saris, Sailesh Singhania paid tribute to their beauty with ‘The Winter Rose’ collection. The lovingly woven motifs were a mesmerizing array of roses, whimsical chandeliers, teapots and cups as well as the iconic design of the jewelled brooch and Hyderabad iconography. The colours were at their vibrant best as orange, royal purple, fuchsia pink and emerald green were fused with stunning gold zari work. Closing the show was the sultry Radhika Apte, who glided down the ramp in a yellow and gold brocade lehenga teamed with a blouse and a flowing cape.
Indigene presented a nostalgic journey of life, memories and dreams that brought into focus the recreated fabrics, creatively stitched and fashionably patched to perfection. The fabric list included Khadi silk, cotton and Chanderi, which were turned into relaxed silhouettes or used as patched accents. It had a mix of traditional as well as western silhouettes. The colour palette was earthy as always, with a predominant entry of indigo followed by charcoal grey, black and asparagus with sharp additions of khaki, alizarin red and icy blue.