Day 2: Amazon India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
Ashish N Soni
Celebrating a quarter of a century in the industry, Ashish N Soni’s collection brought depth and versatility to black, as a way of having darkness to see the light. Far from simple, the colour was used on over 30 different textures. All fabrics were in tone on tone-engineered jacquards or worked upon so as to create a 3-dimensional look. Classic silhouettes brought together menswear details on womenswear staples in the form of sari-jumpsuits and tuxedo dresses along with ’50s pantsuits and knee-length kurtas. Also featured were several evening capes and coats, which emphasised the ideology of simplicity over superfluidity.
Rina Dhaka’s collection was seasonally timed, as the warmth of summer fades to welcome winter’s silence. The collection infused tribal elements with prairie-like styles of ruffles on billowing dresses with big sleeves. Clean geometric shapes run across the straight garments along with checks, tone-on-tones, tie-dye, woven stripes and handkerchief hems; a combination of gypsy-bohemian and ultra-feminity.
Hemant & Nandita
Inspired by love and the regal essence of the Edwardian Era, this collection consisted of the simplicity of solid-coloured voluminous dresses and broderie anglaise in a variety of fabrics. Florals proved to be a powerful totem while sheers made a subtle impact. New textures were explored while the silhouettes were relatively simple. Pastel micro-floral dresses lent a rustic vibe and ruffles decorated crepes, schifflis and mesh pieces.
From Imphal’s traditional handicrafts – from wicker baskets to woven outfits – came the inspiration for Vineet Bahl’s collection. The element of weaving brought into embroideries and floral prints were juxtaposed with geometric patterns. Colours of sunrise and sunset, such as medallion yellows, pale pinks, azure blues and indigos were incorporated upon layered forms and embellished by some quirky fringe.
Patine by Shon Randhawa
Patine’s collection translated regional crafts and embroidery traditions, infusing Bengal’s Kantha and Punjab’s Chikankari into daily-wear. The colour palette carried earthen colours of ivory, taupe, khaki, nude, Adriatic blue and ebony on textiles such as hand-loomed cotton, Egyptian cotton, silk chiffon, silk georgette, silk tulle and lace trims. The silhouettes ranged from day dresses, trucker and biker jackets to evening dresses and duster coats.
The collection was an expression of pure and simple forms, taking inspiration from elementary geometry, such as circles, lines and rectangles. Volumes, layers and proportions were elaborate yet they permeated a fluid sense of movement, with a play on balanced symmetry. With all these components, the collection focussed on a key element of freedom for the urban woman who feels significant, substantial and very confident.
This collection recognised the cultural identity and displacement of tribes who have fled their homeland and live as ethnic refugees. The tribal elements form patterns, from traditional tribal progressing into modern contemporary graphics. Built with character and harmony in mind, the collection worked with sharp contrasts. Tones of ivory, navy, black and red signified their emotions of survival and strength. Practical and comfortable in an effortless way, the silhouettes were relaxed with soft tailoring and volume.
Titled Rooh which translates to the soul, this collection was inspired by the jungle. Romantic yet androgynous silhouettes were rendered in ivory applique on translucent organza and exotic wildflowers came alive with silk floss 3D embroidery, creating surreal foliage right out of an enchanted forest. The colour palette was kept pristine with ivory, carefully combined with champagne rose and cashmere blue. The combination of fabrics created a subtle play of opaque and translucent, with voluminous chanderis and organzas in forms of jackets and gowns all finished with their signature serrated edging.
Nikhita – Myhnah Designs
Confident, glamorous, and oozing seduction, the collection by Nikhita Tandon was called ‘I Am Worth It’, as it reflected the attitude and aspirations of the modern woman. Conceptualised in the primary palette of black and white, with sprinkles of silver, the collection harmonised the colours with lace, foil printing and organza.
Aarti Vijay Gupta
Taking us back as children in art class, this collection traced a playful evolution of design. Fun-loving prints on easy anti-fit silhouettes with asymmetric hemlines walked the runway, created in breezy breathable fabrics like lightweight cotton and silk.
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- Gundi Studios Is Designer Natasha Sumant’s Attempt At Subverting The Patriarchy
- Analysing Mumbai’s Distinct Signage And Its Underlying Sociological Factors
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