7 Indian Designers Demonstrate How The Inside Of An Ensemble Is Just As Fascinating As The Outside

Immerse yourself in the deep, bold hues of fabrics and drapes that swirl in mysterious layers revealing finely-stitched linings, concealed pockets, veiled seams and more as you wear them turned inside out.

BODICE

Cotton twill top, cotton culottes, both from Bodice, New Delhi. Mesh headband, stylist’s own.

Cotton twill top, cotton culottes, both from Bodice, New Delhi. Mesh headband, stylist’s own.

“The inner structure and finish of a garment is a very important part of the Bodice philosophy. The interior is as important as the exterior and is integral to a contemporary, design-led vision of luxury.

Binding, a technique usually employed to give a finishing touch to the seams inside a garment, is used as a design element on the outside of Bodice’s garments to construct an innovative form of decoration on our studio pieces. The binding allows for graceful movement whilst retaining the clean, structured silhouette that is our trademark aesthetic. Ideas of what is beautiful or luxurious are playfully subverted while staying true to the concept of luxury with a penchant for details and the mastery of artisanal techniques.”

– Ruchika Sachdeva

RISHTA BY ARJUN SALUJA

Silk twill jacket dress, wool silk blazer, both from Rishta by Arjun Saluja, New Delhi. Denim pump, from Christian Louboutin, Mumbai.

“The soul of the piece is the most important — it’s what gives the garment character, shape, life and hastens its metamorphosis. The construction of a garment is the essence of pattern-making. The inside structure is the foundation of its quality. It is extremely important that the lining balances the entire piece and the fusing, thread and the pasting are of superior quality to give the ensemble strength and shape.”

– Arjun Saluja

PÉRO

Cotton waistcoat, wool coat, silk top, all from Péro, New Delhi. Straw hat, stylist’s own.

Cotton waistcoat, cotton coat (worn as skirt), wool coat, silk top, all from Péro, New Delhi. Straw hat, mesh socks, stylist’s own.

“We have always paid attention to the inside finishes of a garment; it’s a standing instruction on the table that you have to spend an equal amount of time tailoring the inside of the garment. I’ve seen people wearing our garments inside out before — they couldn’t make out whether it was the right side or the wrong side since we avoid stitching labels. That way, if someone wants to reverse the garments, it will still look as if they are wearing it on the right side.

Luxury is the intangible entity that makes certain garments feel special because of the painstaking attention they have been treated with. We tailor the pieces in such a way that there is a contrast on the seams, which enhances them and the construction of the garment.”

– Aneeth Arora

ASHISH N SONI

Embroidered wool dress, lurex-wool blazer, both by Ashish N Soni, New Delhi. Metallic strappy heels, from Jimmy Choo, Mumbai.

“Garment construction and detailing have always intrigued me as much as design has. Engineering garments in a fashion that allow them to be worn the other way requires a mastery over seams and their finishing. It is a journey that is tedious to begin with but utterly rewarding when one sees a garment that can be equally beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside.”

– Ashish N Soni

SANJAY GARG

Cotton and silk tunic, brocade silk tunic (worn as skirt), silk coat (worn on head), all by Sanjay Garg, Mumbai.

Cotton and silk tunic, brocade silk tunic (worn as skirt), both by Sanjay Garg, Mumbai.

“The lining of a garment is a reflection of the craftsmanship that was involved in its tailoring. It is something that is so intrinsically personal, that only the wearer can experience the work that goes into making it. Very much akin to an undergarment, it is like a joke that only you are privy to.

Our design philosophy has always involved measured interventions within traditional practices, be it the design, material, tools, technique or colour. I have continued to explore solutions in design and discovered that piping gives the garments structure and strength for extended durability, and so if a pocket or seam can add to the functionality of the garment, then that’s what we’ll construct. “

– Sanjay Garg

ABRAHAM & THAKORE

Cotton and silk jacket, silk pants, both from Abraham & Thakore, New Delhi. Bubble strappy heels, from Christian Louboutin, Mumbai.

“We believe that garment-construction is a craft and we utilise techniques — both inside and out — that are thoughtful, deliberate and often the antithesis of mass manufacture. The interior of a garment must be thoughtfully designed and finished, with as much attention given to the surface.”

– David Abraham

RAJESH PRATAP SINGH

Cotton chikankari shirt, by Rajesh Pratap Singh, New Delhi.

Cotton chikankari shirts, all by Rajesh Pratap Singh, New Delhi. Leather pumps, from Christian Louboutin, Mumbai.

“Personally, I consider that the engineering of a particular garment is equally, if not more important than what goes on top of it. The construction of the perfect garment and the process itself has a certain beauty beyond ornamentation.”

– Rajesh Pratap Singh