She’s Goth The Look

Post-modern subcultural dressing is all about emerging micro-trends flooding our screens. Goth is not just goth anymore, it’s “dark academia” or “regency-core”, or any one of the numerous genres of dressing culture flooding social media. People no longer have to engage with the historical context that shaped the framework of goth subculture. Consumption revolves around visual signalling and surface level understanding without getting dirt in your nails. When our identities shift quickly and are rooted in the “right look”, they are less about self-expression than the performance of it. The goth subculture is firmly rooted in every part of Delhi-based vlogger Tanya Bedi’s life — music, literature, art and the fine curation of clothing.

Cheekily Bedi creates a playlist to set the mood as she walks us through her approach to goth dressing in an exclusive fashion editorial…

What was the catalyst for your current gothic style?

There wasn’t a single catalyst so much as a gradual realisation of who I am. Growing up on Tumblr, I became aware of goth and emo subcultures. I liked both, but emo felt closer to my identity at the time.

When I started earning, I began experimenting more seriously with my clothing choices. There were several style phases along the way, some of which we don’t need to revisit, most notably the fanny pack era.

In 2023, I spent an entire day at The National Gallery in London, particularly revisiting certain paintings from the Romantic period. That sent me down an art history rabbit hole where I learnt about Gothic architecture and the aesthetic’s revival across different media. Around that time, I also started listening to metal, my old emo/rock albums and ’60s gothic music, and finally succumbed to my current gothic-inspired style influenced completely by recognising that I am instinctively drawn towards this aesthetic over and over again.

What are your stylistic mainstays?

Lace has been the main fabric tying all my stylistic eras together, and a stack of intertwined necklaces that are so tangled it makes people uncomfortable.

What do you think about the Gen-Z adoption of gothic style in contrast to previous generations?

I find it much more inclusive of different types of goth. My first introduction to goth was Trad Goth (traditional goth) — think lace chokers, waist corsets with floral details, milkmaid tops…. Or it was Lolita Goth (coquette inspired simulacrum from the novel of the same name) — think spider webs, a collared dress with ruffles on the chest, lace umbrellas…. And if you didn’t dress like that, you would not be considered part of the subculture, but I think there’s a broader space now to explore.

What are some cultural influences that have layered your aesthetics?

First off, I refuse to follow and I need to rebel against the socio-cultural norms set for women to always be bright, happy, modest and feminine. The easy access to dark romance and smut novels is something I approve of.

Besides, sources of inspiration are: Bram Stoker’s Dracula, Kat from 10 Things I Hate About You, Angelina Jolie at the Girl, Interrupted premiere, Linkin Park and The Addams Family — the cartoon.

How does gothic romanticism bleed into other aspects of your life beyond style?

I have this constant voice in my head that sounds like an old rusty vampire, just tired and bored constantly, except when I feel creatively challenged, then the voice becomes passionate and romantic. Maybe it’s because I have watched and read a lot of vampire romances in my teens, or maybe it’s because I’m a Capricorn, who knows, but I think it bleeds into my life completely thanks to the voice.

What are some songs that you can suggest to someone wanting to get into this mood?

Red Right Hand by Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds
Spellbound by Siouxsie and the Banshees
Bela Lugosi’s Dead by Bauhaus
House of the Rising Sun by The Animals
Body by Mother Mother

What are some things you’re trying to convey through your style?

The main thing I’ve always wanted to convey through my outfits is that you have autonomy over your body and you can dress it the way you want to.

Is it just a phase?

@itsnotaphase.ok

Is there an aspect of Indian culture, or the culture surrounding you, that feels gothic in your eyes?

I’m not sure if this is super culturally significant, but it’s very authentic to my upbringing in India. Since I was a kid, I’ve seen vultures circle, and when I asked about what that was, I was always told the truth: that probably something/someone had died, and the vultures were feeding on its corpse. I always found this melancholic and romantic at the same time; it’s obviously upsetting to know that there was a life lived, and now it’s gone, but it’s nice to know that even after its death, it serves a purpose in the ecosystem. It taught me that if I have nothing else to give, at least I’ll give back to the earth someday.

That relationship with mortality, where death isn’t erased but absorbed into daily life, feels inherently gothic to me.

Disclaimer: This feature contains visuals that could be considered as mature content.