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Verve People
January 06, 2017

Fabio Salini On His Innovative Fine Jewellery

Text by Nisha Paul

The Rome-based designer talks about curiosity, inspiration and being influenced by India

He is the much-acclaimed winner of the Talent de l’Originalite, a coveted achievement on the jewellery map of Paris and has trained with some of the best jewellery houses like Cartier and Bulgari. His unusual work is both innovative and bold and comes with unexpected combinations, such as 18-carat gold and diamonds with bamboo and straw, and precious gemstones with carbon fibre and titanium that come together to create a perfect harmony of modern aesthetics and traditional elegance.

My inspiration is the result of many different things and information that I catch on to every day and that becomes part of my thoughts and myself. Rome with its fountains, piazzas, churches; glimpses of unique views and even the light in the sky that the silhouettes of monuments and cupolas stand out against. All this feeds my artistic sensibility. I think that inspiration is above all an energy that turns into something magical; it is emotional and it’s not bound by geography. My creativity is sensitive to cultural, social and artistic changes worldwide.

It is necessary to have curiosity and to have the courage to walk on the edge and go further. To achieve this, I do have my infinite passion for jewels, I have my talent and I have my sensibility…but above all, I have my sound foundation and experience. My gemmological studies, the years working in Cartier and Bulgari, all the collections I’ve designed, all the materials I’ve used, the forms I’ve experimented with and the trends I’ve developed have served to give rise to my present expression. Working on the idea of contrast, I use daring juxtapositions and experiment with new materials that change the classical image of jewellery.

I am always glad to see celebs wearing my jewels because they provide exposure. Nevertheless, such endorsements have become a system that requires a strategic approach in which I do not believe very much. I prefer to be focused on my clients who belong to high society, members of royal families and women with sophisticated tastes. I design my collections following my instinct but it may happen that I design a jewel with a specific client in mind because I think it will be perfect for her or just because her personality and friendship inspire me. I’d like my pieces to be perceived as an extension of the wearer’s personality, as well as an expression of my style.

I am planning to expand my business in London and New York. I already collaborate with Moda Operandi in London and hold trunk shows in their exclusive showroom. A press presentation will be held in Paris during the next fashion week, to present my work to an international audience.

Of course I’ve been to India since it has always represented in jewellery one of the richest sources of inspiration. As all the big jewellery houses were in the past, I am inspired and possibly even influenced by the opulence of Indian jewellery. Its style is very particular, adorning any part of the body and using so many references from nature, art, architecture, history. The richness and colour of Indian art is strongly represented in the jewellery, which is characterised by a joyful use of colour and intricate design full of details, making it quite hypnotic. Traditional jewellery has always represented a challenge for me and I often get inspired by its classical symbols and magical atmosphere which I like to interpret in a new, simpler and contemporary way.

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