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Fashion
March 29, 2016

Verve Exclusive #FirstLook: 5 Designers at LFW Summer Resort 2016

Text by Tanisha Choudhury

5 exciting designers give us an exclusive sneak peek at their collections ahead of LFW

Lakme Fashion Week Spring Summer 2016 is here, and the following designers gave us an exclusive sneak peek at what to expect from their collections. They also spoke about their inspirations, mood boards and textile innovations.

1. Payal Khandwala

1. What is the inspiration behind this collection? What was on your mood board?
“This year spring summer for me is inspired by all things geometry. The inspiration for this collection started with my daughter, who is 6. She was learning about shapes in school and this got me nostalgic for my metal geometry box, the compass, the set square, the simplicity and complexity of shapes – it was the perfect way to begin this story.
My constant sources of inspiration are the artist and sculptor Richard Serra and artist Franz Kline, steering the direction of my collection.”

2. What was the process of designing it like?
“Keeping zero wastage in mind this season, many of the accessories are fashioned from negative spaces, so that a circle punched from a square bangle became a circular pendant.
Diagonally cut fabric allowed the leftover triangular shape of one garment to become the triangle in another. This allowed us to contribute in a small way to sustainability and also made the design process a bit more challenging.”

3. What special textiles or weaves have you used in this collection?
“The motifs are woven in metallic gold and silver thread in geometric patterns to keep them traditional but also contemporary.
We also worked extensively with our craftsmen in Bengal, added a shuttle to the weaving process, and after a season of research and development, colour-blocked mulberry and matka silk textiles diagonally, with better drape and fall for the saris and for our garments.”

4. What key pieces would you recommend to people?
“My favourite ensemble is the convertible dress which can also be worn as a skirt.”

2. Swati and Sunaina

1. What is the significance of the name ‘The Lightness of Being: Radha’? Why did you decide to use Radha as the muse for this collection?
“Picture this: the melody of the flute is rippling through the grove. Radha is sitting under a shady tree, washed in the golden sun rays filtering through the canopy of nature. Her beauteous sari is fluttering in the breeze, the hues matching the faded wild flowers, the fruits, the calm shrubs…
Sensuous, gossamer creations in soothing and calm pastel shades, hand loomed with affection, pay homage to a wearer’s purest and calmest incarnation, to her very own Radha. Radha will resonate with the city girl who, despite living in a cacophonous metro, is able to maintain a personal space of purity.”

2. Tell us about the new textiles or weaves used in this collection.
“Rang-Kaat: an extremely complex weave which is now almost extinct, is so called because the weft is cut while weaving and new colours introduced at varying intervals.
Jaamdaani: this delicate, classic textile was and is the most sophisticated weave.
Tissue: this is the richest textile woven and has pure silver zari dipped in gold, woven through the fabric of the sari.
Muslins: the finest cotton that feels almost weightless to the wearer and are our USP.
A unique experiment that we did and came up with extremely satisfying results was trying to give a three dimensional feel to the borders by a clever weaving technique.”

3. What key pieces from the collection would you recommend to people?
Ab-e-Rawaan for a bride, Oorjaa rang-kaat for the connoisseur and Angoori and Sharbati for those who like understated elegance.”

3. Payal Singhal

1. What is the inspiration behind this collection? What was on your mood board?
“This collection is inspired by the enigmatic elegance of iconic Indian royal women – from their heirloom jewels to traditional saris passed down the family tree.
On the mood board were pictures of all the iconic princesses like Maharani Gayatri Devi, Sita Devi and Indira Raje of Baroda, exquisite vintage jewellery in gold and references of fashion from the 20s to the 50s.”

2. What is the significance of the name ‘Sitara’?
“Sitara means shining star and to me the women who have inspired the collection are iconic, leaders in fashion and stars in their own right.”

3. What key pieces from the collection would you recommend to people?
“I would recommend the Anar aur Mor print long jacket from the collection. It’s versatile and can be worn in so many ways for Indian and non-traditional occasions. The other piece I would recommend is the stone organza skirt with an embroidered zardozi jaal.”

4. Swati Vijaivargie

​1. What is the inspiration behind this collection? What was on your mood board?
“My inspiration this season ​are the antique chintz of India. My mood board featured ​floral as well as bird patterns.”

3. What special textiles or weaves have you used in this collection?
“We have used khadi appliqué​s extensively through​ the​ collection. Old fabrics have been rehashed to create​ interesting floral and geometric patterns using shibori.​”

3. What key pieces would you recommend to people?
“The overall chintz appliqué jacket with ​a ​striped dress​ is my absolute favourite​.”

5. Aiman

1. What was the inspiration behind this collection? What was on your mood board?
This collection is based on my favourite theme — love. The nature goddess who lost her love and is trying to bring him back to life by growing a new heart for him on plants. My mood board obviously had the most gorgeous looking tabooed plants, carnivorous plants like the Venus fly trap and different diagrams of human anatomy.

2. What is the significance of the name ‘Re-Make’?
“It signifies the basic rule of ‘if it’s broken, fix it’ from growing a heart to starting from scratch in life. Never give up, re-make.”

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