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Beauty
April 05, 2017

Keeping It Real Is The Biggest Beauty Trend Of The Moment

Text by Aparrna Gupta

Wearable make-up — that reflects your personality and doesn’t look forced — is making waves on the ramp

The backstage moments of Spring/Summer 2017 made us realise how beauty has moved beyond seasonal trends. There seems to be a happy coexistence of looks — from nude to bright, from dewy to matt. Seeing make-up as a corrective tool to appear flawless is so 2000-and-late. As a fitting reply to the overdose of perfectionism one finds on social media, the runways told a different story, with colour cosmetics becoming ticket to feeling like yourself. “The newest trend is about being free from any expectation, and seizing the chance to express through make-up,” says Mickey Contractor, Mac’s director of make-up artistry, India. International make-up artist Lyne Desnoyers agrees, ‘The codes of beauty have fundamentally changed in recent years. Reality is so enduring; it’s inherently part of our language as artists now. Credible authentic make-up styling is what real women want.’

At Alberta Ferretti, the look was relaxed with a hint of kohl to define the eyes, while lips were bathed in conditioner to bring out a richer, but more natural colour. The eyes got darker and more smudged at Carolina Herrera’s show in New York, while the mouth wandered in the zone of blushing pinks. A similar understated but dewy look was sported at Chloé in Paris. Ethereal floral pastels with a nymph-like quality were seen at the very feminine Paul Smith show.

Just like a canvas, the face has to be prepped before it’s brushed with colours. Real skin doesn’t mean leaving it bare with no make-up; it means illuminated skin that looks well taken care of. Contractor explains, “Fitness is the flavour of the moment, and the post-workout natural glow is what most want to emulate. So it’s not just about applying the make-up, but having a radiance that’s a result of a healthy lifestyle and good skincare habits. More and more at fashion shows, we are creating skin that looks lit from within, and not like we spent hours making it look like this. Shine and gloss are seen on the eyes, cheeks and lips.”

However, this doesn’t mean that colour is on its way out. In fact, it is being embraced like never before. The time-tested dictum that ‘less is more’ is being turned on its head. No longer do you need an occasion to wear a pop of red or shocking pink on your lips. If you want to look glamorous in a boardroom meeting, so be it. No need to save it for a night out. It’s all about expressing your mood in the moment. At Mary Katrantzou’s London show, models sported glossy lids and pumped-up matt fuchsia lips. A shock of colour on otherwise clean skin was paired with painted ears at Proenza Schouler’s New York show. Green, blue and purple swept horizontally through the eye with a sense of abandon made their presence felt at Emilio Pucci. Coloured liner, a lot thicker than usual, was again spotted at Salvatore Ferragamo in bright orange. This may be a bit too dramatic for daily wear, but the idea is to get inspired and not follow blindly. “There is a splash of colour, but done in two different ways; the first is almost like a smudge and then there is a more graphic way of wearing it,” adds Contractor. The idea is to embrace an element instead of the entire look to complement your persona. “Instead of heavy swatches on the eyes, use these hues as eyeliner. I always encourage Indian girls to try this; a beautiful indigo or a forest green, which lightens our otherwise dark eyes,” explains celebrity make-up artist, Namrata Soni. Confessing that she has never been a “trend make-up artist”, she finds that “People are accepting who they are, and are using make-up to express their personalities. It is okay if your liner is not going up till there, if your lips aren’t perfect, but the thumb rule is that the overall face should look appealing.”

Imperfections find a big supporter in renowned hairstylist Adhuna Akhtar, founder and creative director of BBlunt. Known for her avant-garde cuts, she states, “Trends are transient, it’s redundant to follow them. Instead, personalise them. Use them as a reference point for inspirations. Because the only person you need to look like…is you. Imperfections are what make you perfect.”

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