Fashion
Flip Through India’s Sartorial History With These Designers
Photographed by Kapil Das. Styling and Conceptualisation by Nikhil D. Assisted by Yvonne Monteiro, Aashna Rekhi, Prateek Kumar, Saket Sharma. Make-Up by Tenzin Kim, Inega Model Management. Hair By Sonam Singh and Justine Rae Mellocastro. Models Courtesy: Deveny Dweltz, Diya Prabhakar, Gayle Dweltz, Namrata Tripathi, Suzanne Baker, Anima Creative Management. Amrita Ganesh, Rakshita Harimurthy, Faze Model Management. Anjali Lama, Krithika Gopalkrishnan Iyer, Sanaa Balsari-Palsule, Inega Model Management. Aditi Joshi, Tfm Model Management. Anugraha Natarajan, Mansi Kadian, Shreya Chaudhary, Toabh Talent Management. Location Courtesy: Peace Haven, Bandra, Mumbai. Chatterjee & Lal, Colaba, Mumbai
Manish Arora
Supernova Pop
Dream explorations manifest themselves in exaggerated shoulders with all-over neon and metallic patterns decorating the entire form.
Left to right:
On Anugraha: printed dress, SS 2008.
On Aditi: printed body suit, SS 2006. Necklace, by Manish Arora.
Facing page, left to right:
On Manvitha: printed jacket, flared pants and headgear, all from SS 2008.
On Rakshita: pink corseted bustle dress, SS 2009. Choker, from Outhouse, New Delhi. Headgear, stylist’s own.
On Deveney: scaled-sleeve dress, AW 2008.
On Namrata: 3D dress, SS 2013. Headgear, by Manish Arora.
On Mansi: embellished dress, SS 2011. Headgear, stylist’s own.
Earrings, all from Outhouse, New Delhi.
Footwear, all by Manish Arora
Satya Paul
Pattern Recognition
Digital graphics in countless colours and perfectly melded prints.
Left to right:
On Shreya: peacock feather sari, 2006.
On Diya: rainbow printed sari, 2006.
On Mansi: paint splatter sari, by Gauri Khan, for Satya Paul, 2016.
Gaurav Gupta
Art Of The Drape
Flowing, art-nouveau-inspired lines that flaunt the curves of a woman’s body.
Left to right:
On Rakshita: velvet short jacket, AW 2011; metallic gown, Couture 2013; ivory gown (in model’s hand), AW 2015.
On Mansi: multi-zipper asymmetrical trench coat, AW 2008.
Encrusted veils, both from The Source, Mumbai.
Left to right:
On Rakshita: velvet short jacket, AW 2011; metallic gown, Couture 2013; ivory gown (in model’s hand), AW 2015.
On Mansi: multi-zipper asymmetrical trench coat, AW 2008.
Encrusted veils, both from The Source, Mumbai.
Abraham & Thakore
Futuristic Flare
A new spin on workwear, playing on the tunic pant and manipulating textiles to create geometric patterns.
Left to right:
On Anugraha: linen sequinned jacket, AW 2012; wool striped pants, AW 2002.
On Mansi: tussar silk brocade top, pants, both from AW 2014.
On Amrita: khadi cutwork top, trousers, both from AW 2000.
On Krithika: muga silk jacket, pants, both from AW 2014.
Customized gold-plated earrings, all from Kichu, Jaipur.
Footwear, all by Abraham & Thakore
Rahul Mishra
Optical Allusions
Escher’s mind-games interpreted in machine embroidery and paired with deceptive 3D shoulders and sleeves.
Left to right:
On Anugraha: merino wool hand-embroidered trench jacket, AW 2014; pants, SS 2015.
On Suzanne: 3D hexagon pleated dress, SS 2016; organza off-shoulder butterfly gown, AW 2010.
Platform sandals, both by Rahul Mishra.
Ritu Kumar
Print Revivalist
Complex block prints that reflect traditional Indian craftsmanship in striking fabrics and colours make a riveting statement.
Left to right:
On Aditi: coat, print dress, both from AW 2016.
Silver earrings, necklace and payal, all from Amrapali, silver cuffs (worn on the hand and feet), from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai. Pants, model’s own.
On Suzanne: jamavar-motif printed kurta, palazzo pants, both from AW 2016.
Earrings, necklace, both from Amrapali; kada, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai.
On Sanna: printed cape, velvet suit, both from AW 2017. Earrings, necklace, both from Amrapali; kada, from Silver Streak.
On Shreya: hand-block coat, 1988; embroidered mandarin collar kurta,
AW 2016. Maang tikka, earrings and payal, all from Amrapali; kadas, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai.
On Namrata: printed paneled dress, pants, both from AW 2017. Kadas, from Kichu, Jaipur. Earrings, maang tikkas, cuffs (worn on feet) and payal, all from Amrapali; Kamarbandh, from Silver Streak. Both in Mumbai.
On Diya: block-printed tunic and pants, both from 1988.
Silver earrings, cuffs, all from Amrapali, Mumbai.
Printed saris (used in the backdrop), all by Ritu Kumar.
Rohit Bal
White Grandeur
Amplifying femininity with yards of fabric that skim the curves and accentuate the body.
Left to right:
On Mansi: embroidered velvet jacket, jalabiya, both from Couture 2016.
On Diya: golden tissue and ivory jalabiya, mulmul jalabiya (worn inside), both from Couture 1991. Juttis, by Rohit Bal.
Metal headgear, both by Nikhil D. with Trash Talk Studio.
Sabyasachi
Feminine Allure
Delicate embroideries hint at old-world glamour and elegance, where vintage doilies meet heavy armour.
Left to right:
On Gayle: embroidered jumpsuit, SS 2011; studded pumps, by Christian Louboutin X Sabyasachi.
Hairband, cutwork bib, both by Sabyasachi.
Earrings, from Silver Streak; bracelet, from Amrapali. Both in Mumbai.
On Deveney: embroidered jumpsuit, SS 2011; studded wedges, by Christian Louboutin X Sabyasachi.
Earrings, ring, both by Sabyasachi.
On Namrata: embroidered dress, pants, both from Couture 2015.
Savio Jon
Surfing The Nets
Tribal accents inspired by fishing villages were deconstructed using tie-dye and pops of colour to create cascading shapes running down the seams.
Left to right:
On Krithika: bandhini-draped pinafore with slip, SS 2009.
On Anjali: rhinestone-embellished shift dress, silk draped salwar, both from Resort 2007.
On Amrita: copper shredded and draped top, Artisanal 2014; red silk-draped salwar, AW 2016.
On Anugraha: blue gingham twin shirt pinafore, SS 2008; marble-dyed silk shift dress, Resort 2016.
Sunglasses, jewellery, bags and footwear, all from Savio Jon.
Left to right:
On Manvitha: shift dress, by Manish Arora, AW 2008.
Stockings, stylist’s own.
On Suzanne: smoking dress, by Manish Arora, AW 2012.
Headgear, boots, both by Manish Arora.
Péro
Tactile Form
Perfecting the art of shabby-chic clothing, global aesthetics merge with indigenous textiles and embroideries to create whimsical looks.
Left to right:
On Deveney: denim jacket, embroidered dress and headpiece, all from SS 2015; mashru jacket, SS 2017.
On Gayle: crochet top, cotton top, skirt, denims and headpiece, all from SS 2015.
On Suzanne: patchwork jacket, cotton top, cotton dress and culottes, all from SS 2010; beanie, boots and gloves, all from SS 2014.
On Rakshita: woollen coat, woollen jumper, top, tartan pants, handknit sweater (worn as headwrap) all from AW 2016; socks AW 2014.
On Mansi: woollen coat trousers, woollen jumper, printed shirt, and military khakhi jacket (on window sill) all from AW 2015; hat AW 2013.
All accessories used in backdrop, by Péro
Kallol Datta 1955
Surface Tension
Amorphic shapes and fabric folded to mimic skin defy age-old notions about form and femininity.
Left to right:
On Krithika: printed wrap jacket, printed kurta and trousers, all from AW 2012.
On Namrata: foil-printed overlay, SS 2017; crab dress, printed pants, both from AW 2008.
On Amrita: 3D back fold spine dress, SS 2013.
Hijabs, all from Kallol Datta 1955
Launched in 2003 by husband and wife duo Mortimer Chatterjee and Tara Lal, their eponymous art gallery is based in Mumbai’s Colaba art district. Situated in a former Victorian-era warehouse, replete with striking spaces, it is known for its eye for emerging and mid-career artists, as well as its collection of historical material. Over the last decade and more, Chatterjee & Lal Gallery – through its artists – had played a pivotal role in India’s growing art scene. It is a regular participant in art fairs and collaborative exhibitions, and actively supports contemporary artists. Its calendar boasts an enviable programme of events through the year. On the anvil, in the forthcoming months are new video work by Ashish Avikunthak, drawings by Minam Apang, as well as mixed media pieces by Amshu Chukki and UK-based Hetain Patel.
Most recently, the Gallery artists Nikhil Chopra exhibited at Documenta 14 in Athens and Kassel.
