Antar Agni And Bodice Win Big At International Woolmark Prize’s Regional Round

Ruchika Sachdeva
For taking her label Bodice to the finals of the International Woolmark Prize 2017/18 in the womenswear category

Blissful symbiosis
“I am very intrigued by the coexistence of contrasting elements because I believe it gives birth to the kind of design that is consummate in its originality. This paradoxical way of working led me to take inspiration from the 18th-century costumes of Nautch girls who danced at Indian royal courts and set it off against the pure elegance of bespoke menswear tailoring. I have adopted the fit and flare silhouette with pants underneath which provided these courtesans with the freedom of movement and tried to extend it to modern design.”

Masculine influences
“While studying at London College of Fashion, I became obsessed with Savile Row and traditional methods of bespoke menswear tailoring. Since then, each of my collections has had a subconscious undertone of menswear details. I don’t like being confined to a limited set of elements for women’s ensembles so I combine the best of both worlds.

My design process for International Woolmark Prize’s Regional Round was quite comprehensive, starting from merino wool fibre to the three types of yarns we used, moving to the textile designs which included both hand woven fabrics by local artisans and progressive mill made versions and finally going on to the surface innovation and the silhouettes. The weaves are traditional and modern in equal measure employing the use of extra weft techniques and Kantha embroidered wool fabric juxtaposed with antimicrobial merino wool and fabric bound pleats. The idea was to create light weight fabrics in solid colours that remain relevant for years to come. Ideal for both hot and cold climates, they were made keeping Bodice’s philosophy of longevity and utility in mind.”

A local potpourri
“The fabric development process involved a great deal of travel to the rural parts of India and the International Woolmark Prize was a great excuse to plan these trips. The yarn for the fabric was processed in three different parts of India since we used both handspun and machine-made yarn. The handloom fabric was woven in the hills of Himachal and the tailoring fabric was sewn in Nagpur. The craft of Kantha embroidery came from Calcutta and the garments were eventually put together in the Bodice studio in Delhi.”

Muses and inspirations
“Designed and constructed for longevity, Bodice believes in a slow approach to fashion, where clothes resonate wearers’ stories rather than transient trends. Unassuming yet compelling, the relaxed silhouettes carry thoughtful detailing and are made for a self-assured and non-conformist woman, beyond literal and metaphysical borders.

If  I had to pick one designer from the International Woolmark Prize’s previous editions it would have to be Public School comprised of designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for their skill in manufacturing and commerciality.”

Previous: A Walk Down The Enchanting Stepwells Of India

Next: This Lab Is Probably One Of The Last Places In India That Develops Film

Pages: 1 2