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Luxury & Brands
January 15, 2015

“Mix And Movement….”

Text by Shirin Mehta

Nicolas Ghesquière, Creative Director, Louis Vuitton, in his debut showing underlines the House’s time-honoured legacy in a very wearable collection

  • Louis Vuitton
  • Louis Vuitton
    Helene Fillieres
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Louis Vuitton
    Nicolas Ghesquiere
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Louis Vuitton
    Helene Fillieres

Louis Vuitton’s Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière’s debut show for the women’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2014 collection, made a stir by being so totally wearable. Where Marc Jacobs, who Ghesquière is replacing, was all about travel which is where the House’s roots lie in covetable trunks, Ghesquière has claimed to be more about exploration, especially the exploration of the mind. Both throw back to Louis Vuitton’s very beginnings, an opening up of new and wonderful spaces, striking into a time-honoured and noble legacy.

Ghesquière’s collection taps into familiar, staple wardrobe pieces while giving them a contemporary spin, again opening up a ‘landscape of possibilities’, an ‘untiring ebb and flow of retrospective and fresh perspective’. The catchwords here, as always, are contrast, handcrafted artisanal technique, high-tech twists, constant innovation and always, always, timelessness and an undying  respect for tradition. The Louis Vuitton tradition….

These photographs have been shot by Juergen Teller at Paris Fashion Week. He has also been part of Ghesquière’s first advertising campaign for Louis Vuitton, Series 1 which tells a story in the language of three world-renowned photographers (Teller, Annie Leibovitz, Bruce Weber) via the 2014/2015 Autumn/Winter collection, the couturier’s way of interpreting not only this line but also his idea of contemporary fashion.

Here, Ghesquière’s thoughts on the brand that has made him their new poster boy, his debut and fashion in general….

First show with Louis Vuitton
I believe the idea of Louis Vuitton is a little bit like bringing back memories: we all have a connection with it; everyone has their own idea, or has an emotional story. I knew it more in an endearing way. Because we all have people around us who have or have had a Louis Vuitton bag, or who have worn Louis Vuitton, or have a Louis Vuitton item in their lives that represents also a moment in your life.

La femme Louis Vuitton
It’s not one profile, one woman. She’s a woman who has the talent, in any case, to mix clothes and who has that freedom. I want her to desire, not only the bags, because that is already the case, but also the silhouette.

The craftsmanship
Very elaborate. That’s why I wanted the people to be seated so close to the clothes. It has to be functional and embellished at the same time. It’s the mix with the movement; we can move in the clothes. It is very day-wear, which seems easy to wear. And what is extraordinary is this concern for authenticity, it is this know-how and at the same time, this search for innovation.

About the collection
The idea was to approach things like a wardrobe. Not just one theme though. Find what would touch me the most and what would touch the women around me the most with the Louis Vuitton story.

Which part of the Louis Vuitton philosophy is close to you?
My stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy…the inspiring history that looks to the future and to the world. The quest for authenticity and innovation. The desire for timelessness.

What elements of key signatures have you highlighted?
I wanted it to be lots of leather, of course, and suede. And elements that come from leather goods which can be transposed to clothing in fact. But, also lots of knitwear and jersey, in which we can move.

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