What Makes The Bulgari Serpenti A Heritage Icon | Verve Magazine - Part 2
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Fashion
December 14, 2016

What Makes The Bulgari Serpenti A Heritage Icon

Text by Simone Louis

One of the most widely recognised motifs in the world today, Bulgari’s Serpenti is also a heritage superstar with quite a past. We trace its vibrant narrative

THE CRAFT

It all began with a technique called tubogas. Literally meaning ‘gas pipe’ because of the flexible tubular material used, it allowed the brand to fashion a bracelet that could be coiled around the wearer’s arm. The core of each strap comprised an internal spring, with sections of pre-assembled mesh running the length of it. Bulgari wasn’t alone in the usage of the technique, but they made their product unique by attaching a serpent head and tail figurines to each end, and subsequently placing a watch dial at the head. Having described the brand as an ‘important museum of contemporary art’, Andy Warhol could be found buying these pieces. In the years that followed, fascinating versions were explored, including every possible case and dial shape — from round and square to octagonal and cushion-shaped — with and without diamond bezels. The case, positioned at the end or centre of the tubogas coil bracelet, was magnificently realised in steel, blackened steel or a combination of gold and steel. In the 1960s, the design progressed into a more realistic enamelled avatar — each scale on the body was separately hand-enamelled from sheet gold, and fired several times before being either screwed together or attached by soldered gold pivots. Additionally, artisans also etched onto these pentagon-shaped scales to make them look more lifelike. Certain models were even inspired by real species and featured their names engraved in Italian on the tails.

Up next: The evolution of Serpenti

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